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  • Carla Casati Rollieri

8 trends for the next cold season

We are officially at the end of yet another social-distance-corona-driven fashion week and we all long to be able to go back to normal, hug, dance, and most importantly we long to be free again. Designers have been forced to reinvent themselves and adapt to this digital era however now more than ever they carry the beacon of a hopeful future, and thanks to the digital transformation they can transport to brighter days, and rekindle the summer in our souls. The weather forecast for next winter predicts low temperature, grey skies, and some snow if you are lucky, yet the cut-out trend will reign supreme along with sleeveless dresses, and bold colors that cry out and claim strong our desire for freedom. Let's take a look at the most exciting winter trends for next year



1. Cut-outs

The cut-out trend -particularly present in PFW- will dominate next fall and winter. Acne Studio masterfully applies it to high-waisted trousers and tank tops, while exploiting the art of maxi knitwear. We can also see Giambattista Valli, Dior, and Alaïa work with lace and perforations as a sartorial strategy to achieve extremely clean cut-outs. The real achievement is that of Givenchy and Ellery, where the female body experiences total liberation from prejudice far from any modest connotation. This trend is all about freedom and exploring what used to be absurd, like cut-outs for the coldest months of the year and a sense of liberation of the body that is long overdue.



2. Sleeveless dresses

Sleeveless dresses for winter ride the same freedom wave as our previous trend, after what seems like an interminable year lockdown we all miss getting dressed up and we don't care what season it is we just want to look good and have fun. From slip dresses with sequins from Beatrice B to Fendi’s soft silk with flowing tailored lines, if it has no sleeves through it over some knitwear and you will be kind of warm but very much on-trend. A showstopper for this trend was Miu Miu that combined sleeveless dresses with knitted caps and double ribbed tights, bringing energy and some warmth to the Dolomites backdrop. In this show, we also see contrasting sartorial codes between sportswear -for the snow- and tailoring. We also find this sleeveless trend in Coperni’s parking lot drive-in fashion show, and Louis Vuitton as well as other designers.



3. Leather jackets and furs

Fortunately, today to wear a beautiful leather or fur jacket we don't have the think about how many animals were skinned to get us this very fashionable look. The ecological furs of the Prada fall winter 2021-2022 women's collection are one of the most memorable moments of this MFW. We love our animal friends too much, so the faker the better!! From extravagant lengths to colorful furs if this trend is too much for you try starting with a jacket that only has the hair on the inside, it might add an interest point and a much-needed heat -because those cutout dresses without sleeves will not do the trick-. Next winter be ready to match your fur jacket to thigh-high fur boots like the ones from Miu Miu.


A more practical and functional alternative are leather jackets, ranging form a variety of different cruelty-free or upcycled leathers -and still, a few animal made products- PFW offers a broad prospect, where you can explore a variety of different lengths going from waist to all the way to the floor. Alaïa, Balmain, and Chloé have focused on leather outerwear, tight and perfectly usable in everyday looks. Louis Vuitton and Courrèges are quite different: the two fashion houses skilfully played with volumes, distributing them between important shoulders and very high necks.



4. Sustainability

Today more than ever quality counts, one of the few benefits that we are reaping from this everlasting pandemic is an increased sensibility to our environmental impact. This has had a ripple effect in the fashion industry. Quality and the intentionality behind each fabric, every button, embroidery, buckle, lining, stitching, and packaging counts; every last detail counts.


LFW in its avant-guard nature played a central role for this trend, lead by Vivienne Westwood which created a collection made with 90% recycled materials and deadstock to reduce its environmental impact. We see many other emerging brands follow in these footsteps such as Marques’Almeida focusing on reducing the environmental impact of denim by featuring local and upcycled fabrics, creating dyes from waste products, and using fabric made from recycled ocean plastic waste. PREEN is another example where the husband and wife duo are committed to sustainability by using FCO certified materials, recycled fabrics, dead stock and recycled garments, their collections are currently 70% sustainable to hit 90% at the close of 2021. Collections like the one from Joshua James Small and Ray Chuy prove that sustainable garments can be both good for the environment, sexy, edgy, and eye-catching filled with embellishments and curated details it is the transparency in the production line that really steals the show. Finally, another brand that cannot go unmentioned is Chloé, which under the new Uruguayan designer Gabriela Hearst presented a beautiful trendsetting collection made with leftover fabrics from past collections and is said to be four times more sustainable than last fall’s collection, also thanks to the ingenious utilization of recycled yarn.



5. Padded jackets

Speaking of volumes, for the next fall winter season, padded jackets and maxi puffer jackets reign, however, if they don't have very large visible quilting then it's not 2022 baby! Once again, it is Miu Miu who holds the power of the WOW factor: puffer jacket paired with, all with clearly visible quilting. Chanel and Dior also jumped on this trend, surprising us with the various utility accents placed here and there in their collections, emphasizing the importance of functionality.



6. Ponchos and capes

Yes, ponchos and capes are back, and with a different cape for every mood, they will take center stage next cold season. On the catwalk, at Valentino the cape becomes a metaphor for the punk bourgeoisie with geometric patterns, different lengths and the juxtaposition of black and white for the ultimate villain feels. Chloé also showcases geometric floor lengths capes with padded detailing around the neck in earthy browns, rusty oranges, and deep oxblood reds, completed with fringes for a city bohemian feel. Finally, Etro instead brings indie style to the maximum expression of fusion with glamor; in its purest and most elegant sense, the poncho is worn in total white -one of the colors for next cold season-



7. Long dress

Next winter will also be all about how our clothes move with us and incorporating that effortless movement into our everyday life. I particularly love this because normally we reserve flowing gowns for the spring and summer time, but nothing makes me happier than a fabric that seems to be alive with movement. The dresses of the coming season are deprived of any constraint to reveal their femininity; fluid and captivating, they caress our shapes and become channels for movement. They speak of a desire to feel free; a need to listen to the summer in our soul even in the middle of winter. Guiding the conversation we find Hermès dresses with eloquent slits, while Dior and Chloé let a deep neckline.



8. High waist and wide legs only

Like for the floor-length dresses, long pants will follow the same trend high waisted, and wide are a must; however, we do finds different adaptations of this trend. Large and fluid, like those by Giorgio Armani, which resemble contemporary Sheherazade. On the other hand, Etro proposes a little more structure, keeping things wide but with a straight silhouette with front ironing, also exploring some fun quilted models. Alberta Ferretti instead shows high-waisted and leather trousers, of a whimsical nature and different from the -still wide- business attire ones by Moschino and Prada.


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